Leopard Gecko Care Calculators & Charts

Last updated: · Reviewed against sources listed below

Good leopard gecko care is mostly about the right warmth, the right insects and the right supplements. This leopard gecko care sheet gives you the key numbers, plus calculators that tell you how much to feed and when to dust with calcium.

Quick facts

Adult length
7–10 in18–25 cm
Lifespan
10–20 years
Adult weight
45–80 g (1.6–2.8 oz)45–80 g
Diet
Insectivore
Basking spot
90–95°F32–35°C
Humidity
30–40%

Leopard Gecko calculators

Leopard Gecko charts and guides

Leopard gecko care at a glance

The leopard gecko (Eublepharis macularius) comes from the dry grasslands and rocky hills of Afghanistan, Pakistan, northwest India and Iran. It is most active at dawn and dusk, stays small and can live 10–20 years, so it is a long commitment even though it is easy to keep.

Heat. Leopard geckos digest food using heat from below and above. Aim for a warm surface of about 90–95°F32–35°C under the heat source, a cool side around 70–77°F21–25°C, and a night-time drop to about 65–75°F18–24°C. Always use a thermostat so the heater cannot overheat.

Hides. Provide at least three hides: one on the warm side, one on the cool side, and a humid hide lined with damp moss that helps with shedding. Overall humidity can stay around 30–40%.

Diet. Leopard geckos eat only insects. They need a mix of staple feeders, dusted with the right supplements, in amounts that change with age. Our leopard gecko feeding chart lays this out step by step.

Lighting. Leopard geckos can live without UVB if they get vitamin D3 from supplements. Many keepers and vets now recommend low-level UVB anyway, because it lets the gecko make its own D3. If you add UVB, use less D3 powder.

How our tools help

The insect feeding calculator tells you how many insects to offer at your gecko’s age and how many to buy each week. The supplement schedule generator builds a dusting plan for your feeding days, with or without UVB. Check growth against the leopard gecko weight chart.

Common beginner mistakes

  1. No thermostat on the heat mat. Unregulated heat mats can reach temperatures that burn a gecko’s belly. A thermostat is essential, not optional.
  2. Feeding only mealworms. Mealworms are a fine staple, but variety with crickets or dubia roaches gives a better balance of nutrients.
  3. Skipping the humid hide. Without a humid hide, stuck shed often builds up on toes and the tail tip, which can cut off circulation.
  4. Loose sand for young geckos. Young geckos can swallow loose substrate while hunting. Tile, paper towel or a soil mix are safer options.
  5. Grabbing by the tail. Leopard geckos can drop their tail when stressed. It regrows, but it costs the gecko its fat reserve.

Recommended leopard gecko gear

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Thermostat for heat mat or lamp

Keeps the warm spot steady and prevents burns.

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Digital probe thermometer

Checks the warm-side floor temperature, which matters most for digestion.

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Calcium with D3 and a reptile multivitamin

Essential for geckos kept without UVB.

Check price on Amazon

Low-output UVB tube (5–7%)

Optional but increasingly recommended; lets your gecko make its own vitamin D3.

Check price on Amazon

Sources

Where sources disagree we show the range they share. See our sources and methodology for how every number is checked.

Results are estimates for healthy animals. Always consult a reptile veterinarian for individual advice. Read our disclaimer.

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